UPDATE:  I discovered a YouTube channel from crew member on the Coral Princess documenting what happened after we disembarked.  I found that these videos provide some excellent information on what life was like on the ship after it left Buenos Aires.  Alfie provides lots of detail on what transpired from an insiders point of view.

We had left the Falkland Islands and were now on the final leg of our cruise.  On the morning of March 15, we were all still optimistic.  We were not aware that anyone on our ship was ill.  Although we knew there were problems in Argentina, we had no reason to believe we would have any significant issues making it home from Buenos Aires.  We were to find out the world was reacting to the news of the spread of the coronavirus much quicker than anyone could have predicted.

Unexpected Sea Day (March 15)

Moon over Chile (March 2020)We were enjoying an unexpected sea day since Puerto Madryn had told us we could not dock.  As the day started, we knew that our only remaining port was Buenos Aires.  Everyone was scrambling to figure out flights home from Buenos Aires on the 19th or 20th.  Even though it was not yet reported, we all suspected that our excursions in Buenos Aires would be cancelled and we were going to be confined to the ship until we disembarked for the airport.  There was some concern that Buenos Aires might turn us away as well, but no official word yet.

Fortunately, we were able to visit all the major ports we wished to see.  At this time, we were enjoying four sea days.  No one on the ship seemed to be in panic, although some were experiencing difficulties rescheduling flights home, primarily since we were not sure what was happening.  Many had plans to disembark in Montevideo to fly home and had to change their plans yet again.  Those who had booked independently or through travel agencies seemed to have the most difficulties.  We had booked our air through Princess, so we were letting Princess take on the burden of restructuring our flights home.

Around noon on the 15th we were informed that Princess would be retaining our passports so that Argentinian authorities could review them prior to allowing us to disembark in Buenos Aires.  We were not sure what would happen if they decided we were a risk. What a great game!

As a concession, we were provided an additional $150 on-board credit plus reimbursed for all our cancelled excursions.  This resulted in a large on-board credit that I knew we could not spend.  But we were told any excess would be refunded to our credit card at the end of the cruise.  I was later to find out that this refund (close to $1,200 in our case) could take as long as 60 days.

We also learned that Princess would be reimbursing passengers who had not booked through Princess for any additional costs of flights and change fees.  However, this was a reimbursement, not outright cash.  We heard several passengers grumbling that their credit card were being maxed out by all the flight changes but no credits for cancelled flights.  Booking new flights was tricky since it was often necessary to book on a carrier different from the original flight.

All in all, it was a peaceful day.  Yes, folks were worried about how they were getting home, but there was no significant worry.

Outlook Improving – Temporarily (March 16)

As we awoke on the 16th, we were informed that Argentina would let us dock, but passengers would not be allowed to leave the ship except to transfer to the airport for confirmed flights. We were also told that we were bypassing Montevideo so that Argentina had time for a full medical screening of passengers and crew. A temperature screening for all passengers and crew was scheduled for the next day. We planned to disembark on the 19th as originally scheduled.

I received an e-mail from Delta stating they had rescheduled our frights via São Paulo and Atlanta – not too bad. I went online and made our seat assignments, so all should have been good. Of course this could change at any time. I was a bit concerned since I had not received any communications from Princess, but figured they were in the loop.  In any event, it did seem at this time that everything was in order and would proceed smoothly.  Boy, was I wrong!

Skipped Montevideo, Mandatory Temperature Screening of Everyone, and the Cruise Continued (March 17)

Today is St. Patrick’s Day, March 17.  Every passenger and crew was required to undergo a temperature check. Incredibly, not a single person had a high temperature.  We had heard absolutely, but  believed Argentina was allowing us to dock so we could disembark on the 19th for our flights home.  The Captain stated that we would be picking up the pilot around 7:30 PM just outside of Montevideo and we would proceed to Buenos Aires where we would be docked on the 18th in preparation for disembarkation on the 19th.

We were not expecting any more gotchas, but who knew at this stage.  We got our passports back, but Princess had not yet informed us of our new arrangements.  If Delta has not sent me a message, I would still be in the dark.  I suspected there would be something in our room when we got back from the evening shows.  But I was disappointed that I did not find anything, not even our luggage tags.  I was beginning to get concerned, so I went to the passenger assistance desk to inquire what was happening.  I was told that Princess had people working on it and not to be concerned.

But, still we were not too concerned.

Getting Ready to Disembark (March 18)

Skyline of Buenos Aires as seen from our balcony (March 2020)As it turned out, in the middle of the night, a letter was delivered with our new flight instructions and information on our departure.  We also received baggage tags for our departure.  The letter said we were on an Air Canada flight, but the Delta site still showed me as being booked on their flight.  And, we were scheduled to leave the ship too late to make the flight on which Princess had booked us.  So, another trip to the passenger assistance desk.  After some checking, I was told that I would be on the Air Canada flight and my departure time was changed to allow me to make that flight. I immediately went online and moved our seats to more comfortable locations.

Since I had originally booked an excursion that would deposit us at the airport, I also had to purchase a transfer to the airport.  By the end of this visit, everything seemed to be in order.

To our dismay, we were still anchored outside of Montevideo the morning of the 18th.  The Captain reported later in the morning that, due to high winds and storms, the pilots could not get to the ship the previous evening.  We were now scheduled to pick up the pilots around noon and enter the channel around 2:00 PM.  This would put us at the dock in Buenos Aires around midnight with disembarkation to proceed as planned.

So, we packed our bags and prepared for an orderly disembarkation the next day.

Possible Mutiny

Around 2:45 PM on the 18th, I was sitting outside a lounge doing some writing.  I heard a discussion in the lounge and decided to go in and listen.  It was a group of independent passengers (people who had made their own air arrangements).  They were discussing their problems and were really angry about how little support they were receiving from Princess.  They stated that Princess was just dumping them into the streets with no support.  They had asked for an officer from Princess to be present and were assured someone would be there, but no one showed up.

The lounge began to fill up with angry people.  As it turned out, a group of about 200 passengers (mostly British and Australian) who booked through a travel company were not receiving support to get flights back home.  I was confused since they were angry with Princess while it should have been their travel company that was responsible for taking care of them.  It was interesting listening to the commentary and there was even talk about taking over the lounge in the morning and chaining themselves to the bar.  A mutiny in progress – what a site to behold.

An officer finally did arrive and stated very plainly that no one was allowed off the ship unless they had a confirmed flight.  Even then, they could only get off to go the the airport in buses provided by Princess and under police escort.  No one was going to be put off into the streets.  Unfortunately, this officer could not help the passengers with their flights and could not really help them with flight arrangement.

The next day, this group did try to take over the lounge, which was allocated as a waiting area for Platinum and above passengers.  They were moved to another area.  In the end, they were in no worse situation than many of the other passengers.

The Scramble to Get Off Before All Hell Breaks Loose (March 19)

We were greeted by workers in hazmat suits (March 2020)You know what they say about the best laid plans of mice and men.  We were awakened three times during the night to inform us that there was another temperature screening and that we needed to complete a medical screening form immediately and place it in the mailbox outside our door. We were never screened even though the announcement stated it as a 100% screening.

In the morning, everyone got up planning to depart at their scheduled time.  We had a nice breakfast and proceeded around 10 AM to the departure lounge to wait our turn.  The morning dragged on and multiple announcements stated that Argentina has still not cleared the ship.

Around noon, we decided to get some lunch as it did not appear we would be getting off soon.  In fact, we were half convinced we would not be getting off at all.  Since there were no passengers waiting to embark, we stayed in our rooms awaiting further instructions.  Our flight was scheduled for 3:40 PM.  We knew the trip to the airport was 45-60 minutes and we would need time to get our bags from the terminal.  At 2 PM, my wife decided to go find a card game as we did not believe we were going to get off.  Not five minutes after she left the room, an announcement called our specific flight with instructions to proceed immediately to the gangplank to get transportation to the airport.

It was confusing, but we exited the ship, took the shuttle to the terminal, got our baggage (which had not yet been delivered to the terminal when we arrived there), and were put on a bus to the airport.  Air Canada was holding the flight for us.

The airport was a bit of a mess.  I had ordered a wheelchair for my wife since her knees were acting up.  We were the last persons to leave the ticket counter since there was no one to push the wheel chair.  Once we got someone, we proceeded to the security line.  Everyone was being questioned on their health and had to get a temperature scan.  I was amazed at how long the line for our flight was, but knew we were not leaving without all these passengers.

Our flight was packed.  We made sure to wipe down our seats and get to know the persons sitting next to us.  In the end, it was a long flight, but not without its own drama.

Multiple Medical Emergencies on the Flight Home

Clouds on last leg from Toronto to Dulles (March 2020)Our plane stopped in Santiago, Chile, where we had to depart with our luggage so the crew could be changed and the plane cleaned.  The wait was reasonable, everyone was courteous, and we got back on the plane following another inspection.

While we were taxiing, the plane pulled over and an announcement was made asking anyone who was a doctor to help with a medical emergency “not related to the virus”.  After a long delay on the tarmac, we returned to the gate to remove the passenger and his baggage, as well as top off the fuel.  Needless to say, this was a long delay and we knew we would miss our connecting flight.

But it did not end here.  We had three more medical emergencies on the flight to Toronto “not related to the virus”.  Of course, that meant that we had to wait at the gate while they removed the ill passengers before we could proceed off the plane.

But we Made it Home (March 20)

Donna with Toronto Penguin during pandemic (March 2020)I have to commend Air Canada and the Toronto airport for their efficiency and courtesy throughout this process.  From the time we left Buenos Aires until we were safely on the ground in Virginia, they were patient, courteous, and very helpful.  I know this was a great strain on them and congratulate them on their performance.

When we arrived in Toronto, Air Canada had already booked us on a later flight.  In fact, they had our new tickets waiting at the courtesy desk and provided detailed assistance for what we had to do to get to our next flight.  Yes, we had another medical screening and had to wait for our bags to be screened before we were let out of the holding area.  We proceeded through US Customs which eliminated the need for that step when we arrived at our final destination.  All along the way, there were helpful employees who made sure we had the best experience.

The airport was a ghost town.  Most stores were close, but we found a restaurant that was open and had a great lunch and a beer.  We proceeded to our gate and waited in an area that had less than 12 persons.  Our flight was nearly empty.

Arriving at Dulles airport around 5 PM on a Friday afternoon to find it absolutely empty was a real shock.  I have seen more people when I arrive on a 2 AM flight.  It had now dawned on us how serious the situation has become.  Of course, we were planning a 14-day self-isolation regardless.  Now, we were home, but everything still seemed surreal.

Although Many of our Fellow Passengers were Still On Board

Dulles Airport - empty during coronavirus pandemic (March 2020)As I write this on April 10, I am glad that nearly all the remaining passenger have made it home.

Many of the passengers were taken to the airport in Buenos Aires only to find their flights had been cancelled.  Further, Argentina informed Princess that, if the ship did not immediately leave, it would be required to stay docked for an undetermined period of time.  Needless to say, Princess returned all the passengers to the ship and immediately left Buenos Aires.

After stopping at Montevideo to restock and refuel, the Coral Princess proceeded to Rio de Janeiro, where they were told passengers with confirmed flights could transfer to the airport.  On March 23, however, after docking, they were told no one could get off, so they left and proceeded to Florida with a stop on Barbados for supplies.

About a week later, passengers reported symptoms.  Thirteen were tested in Barbados and twelve tested positive, including one of our table mates.  Given the timing, I have to believe they picked up the virus in Buenos Aires where a number of passengers got off the ship to go to the airport and had to return to the ship.

The ship proceeded to Florida, where it eventually docked in Miami.  Princess was required to get all passengers home without the use of any public transportation or commercial flights.  This meant they had to find charter planes and private vehicles for passengers.  In the end, all but 13 passengers, who could not be returned to their homes due to restrictions in their home countries, made it home okay.  We heard from some of the folks we met on the ship and all of them are now safely home with a lot of stories to tell.

You can read the chronicles of the return voyage as posted by Princess at https://www.princess.com/news/notices_and_advisories/notices/coral-princess-updates.html.

Morning at Cape Horn (March 2020)

Lessons Learned

This trip produced a plethora of lessons learned.  I hope never to go through this again, but one can never know.

Don’t Panic

I cannot state this often enough.  Panic and anxiety will not solve anything.  Everyone was working as best they could to resolve the problems.  Shouting at them or getting angry will not solve anything.  Many of the crew do not know what is happening, so don’t expect them to have answers.  I know the stress can build up, but staying calm is the best way to achieve resolution of any issue.

Be Kind to Cruise Staff

They did not create the problem and do not have the ability to directly resolve your specific requests.  Be succinct, do not complain.  Smile and thank them for their attempts.  Be realistic with your requests.  Your room steward cannot help you with your flight, nor can the bartender tell you what is happening in the negotiations with the host countries.

Whenever Possible, Purchase Through the Cruise Line

Purchasing air and excursions through the cruise line puts the responsibility squarely on their shoulders.  I have found that in all but a few situations, the cruise lines offer fares comparable with what I can get through other channels.  Unless I am using frequent flyer miles or have a particularly good deal, I prefer to book with the cruise lines.  I have found that the cost differential is minor and, in many cases, the cruise line price is better.  Add the delayed payment and ability to reschedule easily, combined with their guarantees, I find booking with the cruise line reduces my risk and subsequent stress, as was proven during this trip.  Of course, this is a personal choice, but I like to take the stress out of my vacations whenever I can.

Buy Cruise Insurance

Memories of Great Desserts

Even if you do not insure your air fare, cruise insurance will provide additional protections for interruptions.  While we did not need our cruise insurance for this trip, it provided a second tier of support should it have been necessary.  In the end, Princess was required to shoulder the bulk of the costs and logistics, but that is not always the case.  In the end, whether you get insurance or not is your choice.  If you do get it, I suggest a third party product that provides the protections  you seek (such as pre-existing conditions).  Make sure you know what you are getting.

Cruise Lines will Support You Through a Crisis

Cruise lines are service organizations, but they cannot be held responsible for actions beyond their control.  They cannot take control of your air bookings if you booked them through another agent.  They will do the best they can to facilitate the changes, but they do not have the authority or resources to do it all.  They want to retain you as a customer and will do what they can to assist.

Rebooking From the Ship is not Fun

We were told that Princess would arrange alternative flights for us and we would be informed as soon as possible. However, others who had booked on their own were not so lucky.  We heard from one passenger that she it cost her an additional $1,500 for alternative arrangements.  Others were scrambling to change their flights.  I must say that the airlines were working with the passengers to assist them in getting home, however it does take time that is better spent on relaxing.

Not All Agents or Trip Coordinators are Equal

Memories of Great Desserts

After speaking with persons who had booked through agents or as part of a group, I discovered many of them had received inferior levels of support.  This was especially true with the groups, where the coordinator only helped with the arrangements, but was not necessarily a professional agent.  I maintained contact with my agent, Kevin, who was available should I have needed his support.

Make Sure you have Sufficient Funds for Contingencies

Keep in mind that you may need to pay for your alternative plans, then file for reimbursement.  This was the case for many of the passengers who made independent air arrangements.  While Princess said they would pay for change fees and extra charges for booking in the same class, this is being conducted on a reimbursement basis. Some airlines were not providing refunds, so a few of our fellow cruisers were required to buy new tickets.   Princess requires that claims be filed through insurance before asking Princess for a reimbursement, so it could be some time before many of these people see their money back.

Check Refund Policies of Your Tour Operators

We met a number of persons who had booked independent extensions to Iguazu Falls and other locations. They were not getting full refunds on their excursions.  I am not sure how much they are losing, but it sounded like a significant amount.  If you do independent excursions, make sure they are covered by your cruise insurance and carefully check their refund policies.

Conclusions

I do not regret taking this cruise.  At the time we left on March 2, we were at the initial stages of the coronavirus spread.  It had not yet been declared a pandemic and was almost nonexistent in South America.  I really do not believe anyone could have predicted how quickly the world would react to its spread.  Although I do believe Princess could have communicated better, they did everything possible to get us home safely.  This is a novel situation for everyone, not just the cruise lines.  I, for one, plan to continue cruising and hope we do not encounter another situation like this.

I appreciate any comments or questions you might have.  If you experienced something similar, please let me know in the comments below.