This is the second chapter in our adventures above the Coral Princess before we got entangled with the COVID-19 pandemic. Please check out the first chapter, if you missed it. During this segment of our cruise, we enjoyed the beauty of Patagonia and the natural wonders it has to offer. While we watched the news, it really did not seem that anything happening in the rest of the world would impact us, as we were about as far away from the virus that one could get. There were some changes to monitor for potential cases, but nothing that seemed out of the ordinary. Yes, we had more detailed health questionnaires at the port and increased sanitation efforts were evident on the ship. For example, no one could enter the buffet for any reason without washing up at the sinks – it was not enough to squirt some sanitizer on your hands. While this did cause lines during periods of increased activity, there were no exceptions. The crew was constantly cleaning the public areas and restroom doors were left open so no one had to touch them when entering or leaving. And we were constantly reminded how to clean up and sanitize to avoid contamination.
Embarkation (March 5)
On the morning or March 5, our bags were collected from the hotel and we did not see them again until they arrived in our cabin on board the ship. We were transported from Santiago to San Antonio, where the Coral Princess was docked. The trip was over an hour and we had a nice narration of the area on the way. Evidence of the unrest could be seen everywhere. But, it was a beautiful morning and a very pleasant drive.
We arrived at the terminal before they were ready to process passengers. While we were waiting, we were provided expanded health questionnaires and provided a place to sit and wait. Everyone was provided a number to note the order in which they had arrived so processing was on a first-come-first-served basis. There really was not much to do in the terminal, but, fortunately, the wait was not long. Our temperatures were taken prior to embarking and we were provided instructions in case we experienced any symptoms. Otherwise, all was normal. When we got on board, we were allowed to go directly to our rooms.
To avoid unnecessary contact, we decided to have lunch in the dining room, them took a nap until the muster drill. The sail away was uneventful, although we did have some rough seas the first few days.
Great Entertainment on Sea Day (March 6)
Our cabin was small but tasteful with lots of wood trim. The Coral Princess is an older ship which still had the atmosphere of earlier days of cruising. No fancy restaurants, slides, or play areas. It was obvious the ship had been renovated. We had nice flat screen TVs in the room which made the shelf formerly used for the TV available for storage, which we used for our electronics since it had two outlets for charging devices. My only disappointment is that there was no online account functions, but there were kiosks near passenger services to get copies of our account.
The production show, entitled Encore, on the first night was spectacular. The large orchestra (at least twelve that I could count) was positioned on the three level stage. We had five singers and ten backup dancers. How they managed to perform on that complex stage is a wonder to me. The music was vibrant, costumes very decorative, and the dancing more flowing than most shows. This was not a typical production show and ranks among the best I have seen.
On top of everything, the cruise director, Matt, was a hoot. He played the harmonica, ukulele and other instruments, was formerly a magician, and very entertaining. He was everywhere on the ship and always playful and informative. And, he was supported by a very energetic and entertaining staff. This set the stage for the rest of the cruise.
Puerto Montt (March 7)
I did not know what to expect from Puerto Montt. From the research I had conducted, I expected beautiful scenery, but was really surprised. We took an excursion to four highlights of the areas.
Volcan Osorno
On the dive to the Petrohue River, we passed between the Osorno and Calbuco volcanoes. Chile is home to more active volcanoes that anywhere else in the world. We were lucky to have fairly clear skies and could see both volcanoes. Osorno rises over 8,700 feet, is still active, and is compared with Mt. Fuji in appearance.
Petrohue Waterfalls
Wile the Pertrohue waterfalls were not one of the most dramatic waterfalls we have seen, they were scenic and provide a great foreground for the Osorno volcano. The river and waterfall provided a pleasant nature walk with some interesting overlooks.
Lake Esmeralda
Named for its green water, Lake Esmeralda, is a charming lake with great vistas of the mountains. We took a leisurely 45-minute ride around the lake, which was a great way to enjoy the scenery.
Puerto Varas
Founded by German settlers, Puerto Varas is a small town on the lake. Small stores, entertainers, and friendly locals make this a great place to visit. We went to the local market to get Diet Pepsi, since they do not serve Pepsi products on Princess ships. Lots of photo ops and I enjoyed a walk along the shore of the lake.
Amalia Glacier (March 9)
Glaciers are always exciting for me. We reached the Amalia Glacier early in the morning. Unfortunately, it was overcast so we did not get the great contrasts for which I was hoping. However, it was a great view. While we could not get too close, this glacier is every bit as wonderful as the ones in Alaska. There was no calving today, but lots of ice in the water. My biggest disappointment was that we only performed one spin at the glacier. I was hoping for more time there.
Punta Arenas – Magdelena Island and the Magellenic Penguins (March 10)
Punta Arenaswas the last port excursions that we scheduled. I wanted to see the penguins, which required a 2-hour boat ride to Magdelena Island, which is a sanctuary for the Magellenic penguins. The literature indicated that this passage can be quite rough at time, so my wife decided not to take this excursions. Of course, the water was clear as glass and we had a beautiful day to observe the penguins. We were only allowed to spend on hour on the island, but it was worth it. A circular path provided access to the penguins without disturbing their habitats. An added bonus is the lighthouse at the top of the island, which provides a backdrop for photos of the playful penguins. Although we were late in the season, there were still several thousand penguins on the island.
Ushuaia (March 11)
The southernmost city in South America, Ushuaia has a fascinating history as a seaport and prison. The weather was overcast and drizzling for us, but we enjoyed the day regardless. We took the Ferrocarril Austral Fueguino (Train of the End of the World) and visited the Post Office at the End of the World, which overlooks the Beagle Channel. The train ride (about an hour) runs through countryside. We had great narration on the history of the area which explained the number of tree stumps. The trains are all different, so there is a lot of variety. Our cars were pretty cramped, but we still had plenty of space. A scenic stop at the halfway point is really just a way to spend some money, although the view is nice.
After leaving the train, we went to the Post Office at the end of the World. I found the view here to be wonderful. Even with the overcast skies, it provided some incredible vistas.
We did not get to spend any time in the town of Ushuaia, but it looks to be a small town with the traditional charming stores. I would have liked to have had some time to explore more.
Lessons Learned
As I was recalling this portion of our cruise, I realized that I had more lessons learned than I had initially suspected.
Go Earlier in Penguin Season if you Wish to See the Chicks
We were visiting a the tail end of the penguin season. Most of the babies had matured and were ready to head out to sea on their migration to warmer climates. If your goal is to see the babies getting fed, this is the wrong time to go. Plan on earlier in the season around January or early February.
A Telephoto Lens is a Necessity (or at Least Binoculars)
Yes, you can get some good photos with your smart phone, but you really need a good telephoto lens to capture good photos. There are a lot of penguins close to the trail, but much of the action is happening further back. I was glad I had my DSLR with a good telephoto lens so I could get many of the bashful penguins. In this case, I traveled with three cameras: my iPhone that I use for close by and panoramic photos, my 1″sensor DXO that does not have a telephoto lens but takes great photos, and my Canon DSLR with a 55-250mm telephoto lens. As you can guess, I took a lot of photos and am now spending time sorting through them. I have provided a few of the best ones here.
If you don’t take photos, make sure you carry binoculars so you can check out the penguins off in the distance.
Weather is Truly Unpredictable – Take Rain Gear
The weather in this part of the world is unpredictable. Especially at this time of the year, there is always the possibility of rain. Carry an umbrella and/or poncho with you. At the very least, wear a jacket that is water resistant. While we did not get any downpours, we did get frequent light rain and drizzle interspersed with sunshine. Our British friends understood this weather well.
Cabins on Port Side seem to have Best View
While this may not be true for all cruises, the port side cabins seemed to have better views during this voyage. Since we were traveling from Santiago to Buenos Aires, it makes sense that the shore would normally be on the port side. I suspect that the starboard cabins might be better when traveling the other direction.
Be Prepared to Tender
These small towns do not have docks for large cruise ships so the ships are required to anchor off shore and use tenders to get to town. Since this area is also prone to some bad weather, be prepared for some rough tender trips. If you have mobility issues, take this into consideration.
Not as Touristy as Many Cruise Ports
The towns in Patagonia are small and still pretty rustic. They still retain the feel of a small trading village. They are full of small shops with local products and lots of friendly people willing to share their life stories. This is something that is disappearing from many cruise ports. If for no other reason than this, I recommend this cruise itinerary.
Watch News Sparingly
It would have been easy to get caught up in the news about what was happening in the world. In truth, there was nothing we could do. So, we decided to enjoy the trip while we could and watch the new sparingly.
What Next?
We were about to round the southern tip of South America. At the same time, the world was reacting to the COVID-19 crisis. We were about to get caught up in the world event as we began the second half or our cruise.
